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Treasures of the
Limestone Island
and the Great Crus of Chablis
Maison Verget |
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"The pared back, super-pure, limpid Verget style is intrinsically in harmony with Chablis' spirit of place and its terroirs."
-Andrew Jeffords, "The New France"
Jean-Marie Guffens
Jean-Marie Guffens established himself 25-26 years ago as one of the greatest white wine makers in France. He challenged then and now, wine-making in the Mâconnais to produce wines that compete with the great whites of the Cote d'Or. He led the passionate way with an energy and zeal, never previously seen in the sleepy hamlet of Vergisson. Local winemakers once considered him bizarre because of his dedication to ridiculously low yields, while today they see the wisdom of his methods.
Burgundy insiders have been wise to the fact that in the hands of masters, such as Guffens, there is the same power and potential in the micro-terroirs of Chablis vineyards.
For the Terroir curious, Chablis is the northernmost sub region of Burgundy that sits like an isolated island far from the rest. The soils are characterized by chalky, fossil-rich soil (called Kimmeridgian) that gives wine from this region freshness and mineral precision. It is, in fact, this same stretch of rock that lends wines from the upper Loire their distinctive character.
Three wines deserve special attention. The Terroir de Chablis is an exceptional value in that it summarily represents what the best Kimmeridgian terroir of Chablis can offer, often at twice the price. 89+points. The Vaillons Vieilles Vignes (old vines) les Minots 1er cru is remarkably rich, concentrated yet maintaining minerality. From a very small plot; 350 cases produced, 93 points. The power and intensity of Grand Cru 'Le Clos' sets it apart from the rest; stunning white Burgundy. 94+ points.
Robert Sprentall
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2006 Chablis Terroir de Chablis 21.99 (19.99 btc)
(from the Montmain neighborhood; 20% fermented in barrel) Vibrant, mineral-driven aromas of chalk, white peach and mint. Stony and refreshing, with very good cut to the flavors of powdered stone and mint. Finishes lively and dry, with classic Chablis minerality. "Here's proof that you could make almost normal Chablis in 2006," says Guffens. 89 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 |
2006 Chablis "Les Forets" 1er Cru 27.99 (24.99 btc)
Good pale color. Highly nuanced nose offers minerals, spearmint, quinine, tarragon, rosemary and pepper. Rich, fat and supple, conveying a sweeter impression than the Vaillons but with the wine's gruner veltliner-like peppery quality keeping it fresh. This silky premier cru has the volume to reward aging. 91(+?) points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07
2006 Chablis "Vaillon" 1er Cru 27.99 (25.49 btc)
Pale, green-tinged color. Lively aromas of powdered stone, quinine, lime and mint. Bright, rich and spicy, with good grip and acidity leavening the impression of sweetness. Captivating flavors of apple and ginger. This tactile wine really dusts the palate with flavor on the back end. Guffens sold off 40% of his Vaillons juice in order to make this. 90 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 |
2006 Chablis "Montee de Tonnerre" 1er Cru *Pre-Order* 35.99 (31.99 btc)
Pale, green-tinged color. Lively, subtly complex aromas of crushed stone, lime blossom and spearmint. The palate offers an intriguing combination of austere pineapple and mineral flavors with a fat, broad texture. Finishes brisk, very long and light on its feet, with perfumed nuances of lemon, mint and powdered stone. A superb wine in the making. 91-93 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07
2006 Chablis "Vaillons-Vieilles Vignes des Minots" 1er Cru 35.99 (31.99 btc) *Pre-Order*
(this and the subsequent wines were tasted from concrete tanks, where they were still aging with their fine lees) Pungent aromas of citrus peel, pepper and licorice, along with a buttery nuance. Rich, fat, sweet and smooth, with a note of clementine that continues the Meursault theme. This big boy boasts excellent balancing acidity and an alcohol level of around 13%. Finishes surprisingly tight and brisk, with excellent length. 91-93 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 |
2006 Chablis "Mont de Milieu" 1er Cru *Pre-Order* 39.99 (34.99 btc)
Yellow peach and ginger spice on the showy nose. Big, ripe and rich, with impressive volume and rather low acidity. The wine's peachy sweetness gives it an almost exotic quality. Full and impressive, if in a rich, softer style. Guffens fermented this in barrel, then racked it into concrete in February. 90-92 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07
2006 Chablis Les Clos - Grand Cru *Pre-Order* 66.99 (59.99 btc)
Wonderfully pure nose hints at pungent crushed stone, white pepper and lime. Rich, ripe, dense and fine-grained, with highly complex flavors of pear, Granny Smith apple, underripe pineapple and wet stone. The minerality and piquant fruit character cut the richness of the wine. This is superb. 92-94 points, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 | |
| Prices good while supplies last through Wednesday, November 7th.
*Pre-Orders* Estimated Arrival Date: 12/15/07.
We have great new Burgundies arriving all the time. To stay informed click here to sign-up for more from the "Burgundy Report". |
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